How to plant Buck Forage products

What is inoculant and do you need it?

What is it?

Inoculant is Rhizobium bacteria that is applied to legume seed (clovers, cowpeas, etc.) before planting. The nodules on the roots of legumes contain Rhizobium bacteria, which are responsible for fixing nitrogen for the plant. Applying inoculant to the seed ensures that the correct type of bacteria specific to that legume are available to the plant once it germinates.

Do I need it?

Rhizobium bacteria is found in many soils, but planting legumes that have not been inoculated is taking a chance as to whether or not the specific strain of bacteria required for that legume is already present in the soil. In many cases, once a successful crop of a specific legume is grown in a field, there will be sufficient quantities of Rhizobium remaining in the soil to accommodate another planting of the same legume. But, many factors, such as cultural practices, weather conditions and soil conditions, may affect the survivability of the carry-over Rhizobium in the soil. In short, many people grow successful stands of legumes from seed that was not inoculated. However, there is no guarantee that the proper type of Rhizobium for the legume you are planting is present in your soil. Inoculating the seed is good insurance that the plant will be properly equipped to grow to its maximum potential and compete.

How do I apply it?

Some seeds are sold already coated with inoculant. In the case of un-inoculated seed, the inoculant will need to be applied and mixed with the seed before planting. The first step is to purchase the appropriate inoculant specific to the type of legume you are planting. Be sure that you have enough inoculant to treat your seed. Inoculant generally comes in the form of a fine, black powder sealed in a plastic package that should state which type of legume it will treat and how many pounds the package will treat. Also, check the expiration date on the package to make sure that the inoculant is still viable. The next step occurs immediately before planting. Dump the seed into your seed drill, broadcast spreader, or whatever type of planter you are using. Then apply the appropriate amount of inoculant to the seed. Stir the mixture until you feel that the inoculant has come into contact with the majority of seed. Then plant the seed as normal.

Some people have used liquids like milk, water or even soda pop as an adhesive agent for getting the inoculant to stick to the seed. These practices probably do more harm than good, as they will clump the seed together and stop up your planting equipment. They may also damage the Rhizobium with any acidic contents they contain. If you want to be sure that your inoculant is adhering well to the seed, you can purchase a commercial "sticker" agent sold by inoculant manufacturers, or buy a brand of inoculant that has an agent already mixed with the Rhizobium (such as Histick).

What Is a Soil Test Worth to You?
by Jim Johnson

There are two ways to measure the value of a soil test. One way is to look at the cost of lost production from inefficient fertilizer use, and another is to look at potential cost savings if over-fertilization is stopped. I would like to illustrate these situations to you in this article. The data I am using are a compilation of producer samples tested by the Noble Foundation. It represents about 10,000 samples taken over five years. All illustrations assume bermudagrass is the crop/forage being grown.

First let's look at phosphorus (P). P is a macronutrient, which means it is needed in relatively large quantities by growing plants. Most soils in the Noble Foundation service area are inherently low in P. Our data show that only 33 percent of the soil tested has sufficient P (Fig. Phosphorus (P) Levels). Let's assume you are in the slightly deficient range or below. That is 48 percent of you. If so, you are 80 percent sufficient in P or less and need at least 40 pounds per acre P2O5. According to Oklahoma State University, if you do not add the needed P, you limit your yield by at least 20 percent. That means without adding the needed P, you waste at least 20 percent of your nitrogen (N) fertilizer dollar. With today's N cost, that is not an attractive option.

Next let's look at the inverse of this example with potassium (K). K is also a macronutrient and second only to N in the amount needed by a growing plant. However, most soils (66 percent) that we test are sufficient in K (Fig. Potassium (K) Levels). Let's assume you are in that 66 percent and that you annually apply 300 pounds per acre of 17-17-17 fertilizer. That is 51 pounds per acre of K2O you are paying for and applying that you don't need. At $0.15 per pound of K2O, you waste $7.65 per acre.

Please don't use this information to fertilize by the odds of what you need. Yes, most fields are low in P and sufficient in K. However, the only way to know is to soil sample and test. Hopefully this article will encourage you to soil sample if you haven't done so. Who knows what it could be worth to you?